@Vail
That’s actually hilarious:sob:
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Yeah, my buddy had one with speakers in good condition, and I’m not gonna lie, the sound quality is SOLID. But apparently not everyone can leave ‘good enough’ alone lol. But yeah, going to have a lithium battery in the back good for about 4k pulse, figuring the amp will put out around 2k maybe less after rise being wired at .67.
@Blaine
Be really similar. Do you have the outer dims?
I have subs in my Fusion, assuming it’s a 13+, no wires can be visible in that area. It is from behind the screen and goes into the tan area aligned with the volume knob. No wires can be seen.
Aza said:
I have subs in my Fusion, assuming it’s a 13+, no wires can be visible in that area. It is from behind the screen and goes into the tan area aligned with the volume knob. No wires can be seen.
I’m trying to add buttons for relay switches, amps, fans for the amps, and LEDs. Running this amp down to .67 ohm lol.
@Vail
Ah, didn’t see what you were getting at. I’d take your best shot at 3D printing, update when you finish it!
Aza said:
@Vail
Ah, didn’t see what you were getting at. I’d take your best shot at 3D printing, update when you finish it!
I probably didn’t explain well enough tbh. But bet I’ll keep y’all posted!
Not sure why any wires would need to be there. If you’re leaving the factory head unit and adding an amplifier and subs, all the wires would be in the trunk minus the power line. That can run down the factory harness channel on the driver’s side and out through the grommet near the hood release. The only other thing you may have is a gain switch and that can go up the passenger side under the front carpet and pop out next to the driver’s knee. I have no visible wires with my amp and subs.
@Lex
Plans to have fans and LEDs on switches/button switches, along with the gain knob and a visible volt meter. I’m running a JP23 wired down to .67, and I plan to bring it up to a 4-5k amp with time. With a compete build fans are pretty much a requirement if you wanna be able to demo too.
Personally, I wouldn’t use that space for what you want. In my opinion, you’d be better off either doing digital buttons via a flat screen head unit, or installing your switches in the center console. Push flush buttons with LEDs would look good there.
@Keenan
I considered the center console; my only issue being that I’m not the only driver of the vehicle, and when it’s not in plain as day sight, these fuckers act like it’s not there lmao. So a slick inside center console panel would be sweet, just not practical.
If you save up you can get the Tesla screen; it covers that space and makes it look sleek.
Flynn said:
If you save up you can get the Tesla screen; it covers that space and makes it look sleek.
That’s not what I’m wanting; needing physical buttons/switches to give me control over what additional electronics are running and when.
I put a magnetic ring to stick my phone or a mag ring when I have my phone in my cradle.
There shouldn’t be any wires running through that area no matter how big a system you install.
Finnian said:
There shouldn’t be any wires running through that area no matter how big a system you install.
In your system, yes. I WANT button switches up there for auxiliary power control. If you do a basic system, no there’s no need. If you do a system like I do, there’s definitely a potential need based on available space. No, a 1kw system won’t need fans, especially wired at proper ohm loads. A dynoed 2600 wired at .67 is probably gonna need it.